Frequently Asked Questions

HomeGuide's installed range for epoxy is $4 to $10 per square foot, so multiply 1,000 by that range for a ballpark. Commercial floors that need 100% solids systems run higher; HomeAdvisor puts those at $12 and up per square foot. Grinding off old coatings and patching add to the total, and once we have measured, you get the price in writing.

A 20 by 20 floor works out to 400 square feet, close to a standard two-car garage. HomeGuide lists a two-car garage at $1,600 to $5,800 for epoxy and $2,000 to $6,900 for polyaspartic. Where your floor lands in that range depends on its condition and the system you pick.

Floors that size are priced per square foot. HomeGuide puts epoxy at $4 to $10 and polyaspartic at $5 to $12 per square foot. At 1,500 square feet the floor is usually a large basement or a commercial space, so moisture readings and the number of coats drive the final number.

Standard epoxy yellows in sunlight, can be slick when wet without added texture, and needs up to a week before you park on it. It also fails on concrete that is damp or poorly prepared. We deal with those by grinding every floor, testing moisture, adding grit to the topcoat and using a polyaspartic topcoat where UV or fast return to use matters.

A fully cured, bonded coating resists salt brine far better than bare concrete, because the brine cannot soak in and freeze in the pores. Grit left sitting can dull the gloss over time, so give the garage a rinse or a squeegee pass now and then through the snowy months, and lay a mat beside the driver's door.

Often, yes, if the dampness is vapor rather than flowing water. We take moisture readings, and a high one means a vapor-tolerant primer goes down first. If water actually comes in through the walls or floor, that repair comes before any coating, and we will say so plainly.

Basements and heated garages or shops, yes. An unheated garage in January is usually too cold for the resin to cure properly, so we schedule those for spring through fall or bring the space up to temperature first.

It depends on the system. By HomeGuide's figures, a car can go on polyaspartic after 24 to 48 hours, while epoxy can stretch to a full week. We give you the time for your floor, based on install-day weather.

Yes. Salt scaling is common here. We grind past the weak layer, fill the pits with repair mortar and grind again so the finished floor is smooth and the damage does not show through.

A smooth gloss coat can be. We add grit to the topcoat, and a flake broadcast adds texture too, so the floor has footing with slush on it.

Not directly. Paint and kit coatings get ground away first; a fresh coating can never grip better than the surface underneath it.

The slab and air must be warm enough for the product we use. Unheated garages are best done from late spring through early fall, or once the space has been warmed for the job.

It is a resin base coat with vinyl chips in a color blend thrown into it while wet, then locked in by a clear topcoat. The chips add color, texture and a pattern that hides dirt.

Mid-tone blends hide them well. Very dark blends can show white salt residue, and very pale blends reveal tire marks, so we suggest a middle blend for most garages here.

The chip edges give the floor a light texture under the topcoat. For a floor that gets wet often, we add fine grit to the clear coat for more grip.

Thicker than a single-color coat, because it builds up base, chip and topcoat layers. That build helps it hide minor surface flaws in the concrete.

Yes, after a moisture test. A partial broadcast is popular in basements because it looks cleaner while still hiding everyday dust.

It is a fast-curing aliphatic polyurea coating. It goes on in thin coats, resists UV, and is usually ready for cars in about a day.

It is better in sunlight and much faster to cure. Epoxy goes on heavier with each coat and is the cheaper of the two. Many of our floors use both: epoxy for the base and polyaspartic on top.

We do not recommend it. Its working time after mixing is short, and Bob Vila's guide calls it a poor DIY choice for that reason. Lap marks and poor bonding are common results.

HomeGuide lists a lifespan of 10 to 20 years or more for a properly installed and maintained floor. Prep quality has a lot to do with reaching that.

Often, yes, if the slab is warm enough on the day. Fast cure helps us fit a job into a good-weather stretch before winter.

It is a clear epoxy mixed with fine metallic pigment and worked across the floor so the pigment forms swirls and depth. Each floor turns out different.

You can, with a UV-stable topcoat, but it shows salt and tire marks more than a chip floor. Most garage owners here choose flake and keep metallic for interior rooms.

No. It tends to show them. We repair and flatten the slab first so the finished surface looks smooth.

It can be when wet. For kitchens, baths and entries, a fine grit goes into the clear coat for grip.

Dust mop, then damp mop with a neutral cleaner. Avoid harsh acids, and use felt pads under furniture to prevent scratches.

For commercial and industrial floors, HomeAdvisor puts 100% solids systems at $12 and up per square foot. Lighter systems cost less. Your price depends on thickness, repairs, cove base and scheduling.

Bob Vila's guide notes a day or two for a fast-curing polyaspartic floor. Thicker epoxy systems take longer, so we phase work or schedule it after hours.

Usually, yes. We degrease and grind until we reach clean concrete. Very heavily contaminated areas may need extra cutting or patching first.

Yes. An integral cove base is common for clinics, labs and kitchens, where the joint between floor and wall must be sealed and easy to clean.

Yes. Line striping can be built into the coating system or added on top for aisles, walkways and equipment areas.

We use a test suited to the slab, such as a moisture meter or a timed test under a sealed cover, and record the results in your quote. The readings decide whether a standard or moisture-tolerant primer goes down.

Yes, if the slab has dried out and the source of the water has been fixed. If water still comes in, that has to be addressed first.

No. A coating is not radon mitigation. Test first, and if levels are high, have a mitigation system installed before the floor is coated.

We grind the paint off first. Old paint often has a weak bond, and any coating over it would only be as strong as that paint.

Light grays and tans, or a partial flake over a light base, brighten a room that gets little daylight. Full flake hides dust in workshops and storage areas.